Sujani Art from Bihar was awarded by UNESCO this year

In a diverse country like India, embroidery has always been the expertise of women, both working and homemakers. For every important moment in a woman’s life like wedding, birth, and religious functions, stitching continues to be a promising skill. That’s how Sujani embroidery came into existence in the state of Bihar.

UNESCO Seal of Excellence 2019, which is also called the Seal Award, was given to Sujani art (also known as Sujini) but it is at the stage of obscurity. Sujani is a form of embroidery originating from the Bhusura village of Bihar in India. During ancient times, patches of different colored cloth used to be sewn together and then covered in designs to make a small quilt for newly born babies. Beautiful embroidery of gods and goddesses was also done and hung on walls. To compete with the demand of the market the artists started making patterns on the saris and on other fabrics. Well in recent days, Sujani embroidery is also practised in the southern part of Rajasthan for making patterns on Sarees, dupattas and other clothing and home furnishing.

Sujani is said to have originated around the 1920s and was only practiced by the Rajput women. The word “Sujani” is derived from the words ‘su’ which means facilitating and ‘jani’ meaning birth. Quilts for new-born babies were made by stitching together colorful patches of old clothes and then Sujani embroidery was done with colorful threads to create motifs and designs.

This style of embroidery is similar to the Kantha stitch of West Bengal. Difference in use of colors, themes and motifs differentiate these two embroideries from each other. One of the prime difference is that in Kantha embroidery, artisans can stitch in any direction of the fabric, while in Sujani embroidery should always be done in straight lines. Going deep into the intricacies of Sujani style stitch, one will find that this embroidery is done only on cream colored fabric with stitched motifs outlined by black colored thread while multiple colored threads are used to fill in colors.

The Sujani embroidery involves layered bits of old cloth material being stitched together and is one of the ancient practices in which old cloth pieces stitched together were considered most suitable for the newborns to be draped in, used as a body cover or quilt. It is also believed that Bihar had a ritual named “ChitiriyaMaa, means ‘Lady of the Tatters’. It was said that the natural things were the blessings of the goddess. Even colours were given the thematic significance, with red standing for vitality and yellow symbolizing the sun.

Idea and Innovations-

It is not just a traditional craft, but it is used to signify a powerful message to convey social and political messages. The basic Sujani art on a quilt depicts messages like- a drunken man physically abusing his wife, pardah system oppressing woman, and practice of dowry too. Alternately, the other half includes motifs and scenes like a woman as the speaker or host of a public gathering, a female judge, or a scene depicting a woman selling goods and earning a living for her.

Present situation

Bihar art forms like Madhubani and papier-mache are popular and known worldwide but somewhere Sujani embroidery got masked. Still, the progress has lit with the production of Sujani embroidery in about 15 villages of India. In Muzaffarpur, Bihar many rural women continue this practice of Sujani embroidery using the fine running stitch and chain stitch combination. In rural areas, a woman is not allowed to step outside their homes, Sujani is giving them the source of livelihood.

Various Uses

The craftsmen used fine running stitch to make beautiful embroidered motifs of deities, flowers, and peacock designs for wall decoration. With the evolving times, the craftsmen started embellishing Indian ethnic outfits like sarees, kurtas, dupattas and other clothing items with Sujani embroidery. Home decor items such as cushion covers, bedspreads, and wall hangings are some of the popular items decorated with Sujani embroidery. Winter wear clothing like Stoles and Jackets with Sujani embroidery are made using the Tussar silk fabric.

Sources of Inspiration

The Sujani embroidery form, which involves layered bits of old cloth material being stitched together, has its origins coming from ancient practices. For instance, these old cloth pieces stitched together were considered most suitable for the newborns to be draped in, serving the purpose of a cover, or quilt. Besides, another ritual was supposed to invoke a goddess named “ChitiriyaMaa, who was hailed as the ‘Lady of the Tatters’. From sun and cloud motifs, which symbolized forces of life, to other patterns like that of sacred animals and fertility symbols which were supposed to evoke blessings from gods. Even colors had thematic significance, with red standing for vitality and yellow symbolizing the sun.

Innovations

The Sujani is not merely a traditional craft. It is also a way to convey social and political messages. A typical Sujani embroidered quilt, conveys two different messages – from a drunken man physically abusing his wife, to women compelled to observe the purdah, and practices of dowry being given on one hand. Alternately, the other half includes motifs and scenes like a woman as the speaker or host of a public gathering, a female judge, or a scene depicting a woman selling goods and earning a living for herself.

Present-Day Scenario

With the rising popularity and vibrancy of other Bihar originated crafts like Madhubani and papier-mache, Sujani embroidered got overshadowed. But today, the production of Sujani embroidery is done in about 15 villages of India. The rural women of Muzaffarpur district in Bihar continue to embroider in the Sujani style, using combinations of a fine-running stitch and chain stitch. When rural women are not allowed to step out and work outside their homes, practicing this art form acts as the prime source of earning a livelihood for them and that’s how they add to their family’s income through this art.

References

• http://www.craftandartisans.com/sujni-kantha-embroidery-of-bihar.html
• http://www.craftrevival.org/craftartdetails.asp?countrycode=india&craftcode=001495
• http://www.umsas.org/en/bihar-arts-crafts/sujini-embroidery/
• http://www.indianetzone.com/41/embroidery_bihar.htm