Baluchar: A Textile Heritage
Darshan Shah

Baluchar has been synonymous with rich textiles bearing a lineage. Patronized by the elites, the Baluchar evolved creating its own specific genre. Its designs and motifs, its comparison to relevant art forms, the socio-economic scenario,the materials and technique used in weaving these textiles have always been an important matter of study not only in the county but also abroad. To keep up with the traditional weaving tradition as well as being at par with the contemporary time period, Baluchars have come a long way. Efforts to revive and conserve these heritage pieces have taken precedence.


Revisiting the inception of Baluchar we have seen Murshidabad growing as an important centre of trade and culture with merchants arriving from different parts of the subcontinent and the world. Their interaction with the local community created a cosmopolitan atmosphere which served as inspiration for the development of various art forms. It was within this set up that the Baluchar textile tradition flourished. Mostly consisting of a repertoire of saris, its name was likely derived from the region of Baluchar which translates to ‘sandbank.’ The inability to locate this village in present time along with sparse mention in contemporary written records, one can only conjecture its fate being seized by the flowing waters of the Bhagirathi river.


Silk that was locally sourced was dyed using natural colours before it could be placed on the jala looms for the weaving to begin. The weavers belonging to a variety of classes worked in close quarters with the naksha makers to prepare patterns and motifs that were then woven onto the foundation with the aid of a supplementary weft. Thematically, the motifs were influenced by both the natural world and contemporary social and cultural developments. The motifs represents a window into the past society. Designs and themes were also borrowed from a common artistic pool which included Kalighat painters, kantha makers, local architecture and more. It was these elements that made the Baluchar sari truly unique.

The Baluchar anchal or end piece came to be marked by figures both local and foreign taking part in contemporary social and cultural activities. Consequently, the sari mirrored important social trends and developments such as the consumption of hookah, individuals partaking in royal sports like hunting and horse riding. Additionally, it represented economic and technological developments such as the launch of the steam boat, the use of railways and more. While the motifs included both men and women but the activities represented remained elitist in nature.